Sorry everyone for the jumbled update that this is destined to be. I finally have power, internet, and a bit of time to write an update, but I feel that I will almost certainly forget to talk about 90% of the things that have happened over the past couple of days. Here goes an update of as much as I remember.
Prabin, from the Nepal Campaign to Ban Landmines (NCBL), created our hotel’s website, and is friends with the owner, so he got us a great deal on the room for as long as we needed, and ensured that they would take great care of us, which they are. The owner is super friendly, and the hotel’s driver has been a lifesaver on our first couple of days here, while we work up our courage to use the micro-buses (that will be a challenge for Sunday).
We spent most of the first day in Nepal being driven around to some of the sights of Kathmandu by the hotel’s driver. As he speaks very little English, and we speak very little Nepali, he would drive us somewhere, tell us the name of where we were, and we would go check it out, not really knowing where we were. It worked out surprisingly well. I apologize in advance for my descriptions of these amazing places, I am still learning what the full significance of them is, and hope to visit them again throughout my stay in Kathmandu to better appreciate them.
Our first stop was a very holy spot for the Hindu people, Pashupatinath. Having no idea where I was going, or where our driver had dropped us off, I was surprised that after paying my entry fee to what I thought was going to be a Stupa or temple, a young man began talking to me about the site, and telling me to follow him to see the cremations. Dustin and I followed him obediently, although I kept asking myself repeatedly “Is he saying cremation? No, that can’t be right… but wait, yes, he is saying cremation… But no, I don’t want to see this, it must be inside, right? And I will be outside, and I will see the building where cremations happen…” Which shows right away that everything I had known about Hinduism I had forgotten, and how unprepared I was for the day. So the first ‘sight’ that I saw was the cremation platforms, where a large number of Nepali people are brought to be cremated after death. Actually, the first sight was someone being cremated on an open platform, which was a shock to my newly arrived eyes, but also an important part of the Hindu culture. The young man who was quickly giving us a complete, eloquent, and charming debrief about all things Hindu, was Sumit, and he (for a small pre-negotiated fee) became our guide of the temple area, which had a lot to see and take in. I won’t remember everything that there is to tell, especially about the intricacies about the Gods and their relationships, but I’ll fill you in on what stuck out to me.
The first, of course, was watching the cremations and the purification of the bodies of people who had passed. This was a moving and overwhelming thing to watch. Both Dustin and I felt that we were looking in on something that we shouldn’t be present for, but Sumit continued to assure us that this was a moment that was open to be shared with everyone. The ashes of the bodies are swept from the platforms that are along the Bagmati River into the river bed, which runs into the Ganges in India. Our amazing guide took us all through the sites, and showed us the deer park, where he saved us from a monkey attack, the door to the main temple, where we could see the back of the gold bull statue inside, but could go no further, as we are not Hindu, and the many smaller temples around the main temple.
He also took us to visit the state run home for the elderly, and the Mother Theresa hospital for the elderly, also located here. There are no photos of this. This was a very difficult experience, and I don’t think I can comfortably write about seeing these elderly people who seemed almost abandoned by their society in someways, although we were assured this wasn’t the case.
OK, jet lag is kicking in, I need to pass out, and I only got through a third of yesterday! I have tomorrow off, so I will have to update more…
Loves!!!!!
k
PS.this is posted a day late due to lack of power and internet.